Cloves

Cloves, the flower buds of the evergreen tree Syzygium aromaticum, are also native to the Molucca Islands. The trees grow up to 12m in height, have large, simple, lanceolate leaves and clusters of flowers that become crimson red when ripe for harvest (Figure 21).

Cloves might have been used as far back as the eighteenth century BCE (based on an unconfirmed report from 1721 BCE in Syria), but they were certainly traded from India to Rome in the first century CE – they were referred to by Pliny as ‘caryophyllon’ – and they have certainly been growing naturally in the Mollucas for thousands of years.⁵ However, the oldest definite archaeological evidence is from a single clove found in Sri Lanka that dates to 900–1100 CE.⁶ The value of cloves is illustrated in Nathaniel’s Nutmeg: David Middleton, captain of the small ship Consent on the East India Company’s third expedition to the Spice Islands in 1607, chanced upon a passing junk laden with cloves which were for sale. He purchased the whole cargo for £3,000, which was ultimately sold on in London for £36,000.⁷ The world’s oldest living clove tree is called Afo and is situated on the Moluccan island of Ternate, being reportedly 350–400 years old. Our friend M. Poivre, the naturalist who exported nutmeg to Mauritius in 1770, is also reputed to have stolen clove seedlings from Afo to go along with the nutmeg.

Today, cloves are grown mainly in Indonesia, Madagascar, Zanzibar, Sri Lanka and Brazil. In Indonesia, cloves (cengkeh) are used as a flavouring in the popular cigarettes called ‘kretek’ – the smell is ubiquitous and not unpleasant. In addition to its original function as a spice for both savoury and sweet dishes, it is used in perfumes, cosmetics, toothpaste and medicines, including an analgesic remedy for toothache. It is also a key ingredient in Worcestershire sauce!